Cat Peeing in the House? The Litter Could Be to Blame




The issue of cat litter seems like it should be a fairly straightforward thing, right? I mean, it's essentially just kitty toilet "paper." Whether or not it's logical to us, cats do have preferences when it comes to litter. In fact, problems with the litter can be enough to send your cat looking for a litter box alternative he considers better, like the floor behind the sofa or a corner of the kitchen. So if you expect your cat to use the litter box, you'll need to get the litter right.

There are Different Types of Cat Litter for a Reason

Stop by any large pet store and you'll probably find at least half a dozen types of cat litter available. All litters have their pros and cons and the choice really depends on what your cat will use.

The most common are gravel-type litters made of either natural clay (non-clumping) or betonite clay (clumping). Most cats are fine with these. Avoid using betonite with kittens younger than eight weeks old, though. Young kittens are liable to ingest the litter, which can then cause an internal blockage.

On the other hand, a minority of cats prefer pellet-type litters. This may be because pellets are softer on the feet. You can find pellet litters made of corn, pine or recycled newspaper.

If given a choice, most cats will use unscented litter instead of scented litter. Keep in mind that a cat's sense of smell is more sensitive than ours. What smells good to us may be overwhelming and unpleasant to a cat. If you've been using scented litter, give unscented a try.

Not Too Much, Not Too Little

The amount of litter you put in the box is another factor you'll need to experiment with because different cats prefer different depths. Naturally, we humans who clean the litter box prefer deeper litter because it's easier to scoop.

The problem is that many cats dislike walking in deep litter and won't use a box with anything more than around 2 or 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of litter in it. If you've been adding a lot of litter to the box, try cutting back to just 1 inch (2.5 cm). Although this shallow depth may make it harder to clean the box, it's worth the trouble if it ensures kitty actually uses the box. After all, it's a lot harder to keep cleaning "accidents" on the carpet or linoleum.

Keep It Clean

With their frequent "tongue bathing," cats have earned a reputation for cleanliness. Given a choice, a cat would never walk around in his own feces. Although kitties do tend to stick to one area for bathroom purposes, outdoors they're able to bury their leavings deeply enough that they don't have to walk through them. And once a spot gets too dirty, they just move on to a cleaner one.

If you expect your cat to use the litter box, the box must be clean. This means litter box scooping is a daily task. It's not something you can let go for a week or even three or four days. Deodorizers don't help if the cat still has to walk through poo and pee to use the box. Many cats just won't walk on that stuff. They'll look for a clean spot on the floor instead.

Be aware, too, that there are a few picky kitties out there who won't enter a box with any soiling whatsoever. That means you'll have to scoop after every bathroom visit.

Introducing Your New Kitten to Your Children




Integrating a newborn kitten into your household, if you possess no extra household pets, is a fairy trouble-free issue. You will use a huge deal of time with your kitten, bonding and in general "spoiling" her, unconsciously make her one of the relatives.

Though, hold in mind that your household is a mysterious new location to your kitten, also depending on her experience, she will want time to adjust and explore. Perhaps she comes from a location where care was taken to bond her to people, like a nurture care situation. On the other hand, lots of kittens spend their first days inside a shelter - either into a cage together with litter mates, or in a "space" surroundings among a number of new kitties, babies plus grownup. In the latter case, your new kitten will require plenty of adoration as well as tolerance, as well as the occasion to be alone when she demands it. Your care in providing these requests will help lessen your kitten's concerns concerning her fresh location.

The "gentling" technique is an excellent technique of starting a bond with your brand new kitten, therefore start to do it at the moment!. (look for it within Google) I can't get credit for this content. This information comes from a veterinarian, i have read about it within a different guide. This technique not only supports the bonding process, but also makes the kitten accustomed to being handled, that will be invaluable afterward with dental treatment, brushing, and veterinary examinations.

Put aside a private section, including a bed, food, plus a litter box intended for your kitten. It can be a part screened off from the area's ordinary action, it does not have to be a total room. It is labeled as a "Protected Space".

She soon will feel at home with you if you provide your brand new kitten lots of loving attention as soon as she asks for it, as well as breathing space when she wants it.

Integrating Along with Extra Animals

It can be a different matter totally, though, if you hold existing dogs and/or kitties inside your family. To start with, it truly is essential to quarantine the small newcomer(s) until they have had their veterinary exam, to stop spreading diseases or parasites they may carry. Feral kittens regularly hold, parasites, ear mites, plus extra parasites. Now and again they may perhaps be carriers or be infected with FeLV otherwise FIV. Adopted kittens from shelters quite repeatedly own URIs (upper respiratory infections), including Bordetella (kennel cough). URIs have an incubation period of up to three or four weeks, so even kittens from well thought-of breeders occasionally may perhaps own the former, thus even a respectable breeder may possibly be oblivious of this situation inside a newly adopted kitten.

Thus, for a couple of days set your kitten in an isolated Safe Space (see above). Be sure she has her personal single bed, foodstuff and water dish, and litter box. You be able to open the entrance to her "secure area" a crack, as soon as she has been cleared by your veterinarian, to allow the extra kitties to sniff as well as peep at her. For your existing cats to become accustomed with her aroma, you be able to rub your kitten with a towel to impart her odor on it, next leave the towel into the slumbering area of your existing cats. Reverse the tactic by giving her a towel otherwise blanket with the smell of your adult kitties. Within a couple of days you can lay her into a carrier and allow the additional cats to go into and sniff her. Expect a fragment of growling and hussy-spitty behavior at first; it is actually intuitive.

For "holdouts," make an effort not to haste things, except give occasions where the elder cats and the brand new kitten can share pleasurable actions. "Chase the ball" with small Brandon is what my cats get pleasure from playing. The "ball" may simply be a crumpled up part of document, but it offers interactivity as the cats compete to be the leading to bring down the "victim." It really is astonishing sometimes how repeatedly they let Brandon "succeed."

Almost immediately-- within a week or 2, the bunch of them ought to settle down as well as be getting along just excellent. The bunch of them ought to settle down as well as be getting along just well, generally within a week or two. The secret is not to hurry things, as well as to provide both sides a lot of personal interest in the interim. Within no time at all, your kitten will be part of your clowder of cats.

Common Ailments That Can Affect Your Cat




There are cat people and there are dog people. The two camps have been arguing over which makes the better pet for quite some time. Obviously, there is no right answer. Some folks like felines and some folks like canines. It really is a matter of preference. Both animals, historically, have made fine pets and companions. But when it comes to bragging rights, cats can claim a small victory. Until only recently, dogs were America's most popular pet. They have since been surpassed in numbers by their feline friends.

According to statistics compiled by the American Pet Products Association, there are approximately 78.2 million owned dogs and 86.4 million owned cats in the United States. But that is not the statistic we want to focus on today. The only reason there are more cats in America is because cat lovers are far more likely to own more than one cat than dog lovers are. Only 28 percent of dog owners have more than one canine, compared to 52 percent of cat owners that have more than one feline. Why is this important? Because caring for pets can be expensive, especially when you own more than one!

The same survey of American pet owners informs us that the average dog owner spends a little bit more on veterinary visits each year ($248 to $219). But that owner typically only has one dog, while the average cat person has at least two! In other words, those who are fond of felines often spend more on an annual basis to take care of them. Furthermore, many cat owners live on fixed incomes, which can make it extremely difficult to afford pricey prescription medications and vet visits. What can they do?

Practice Prevention

Before we begin, it is important to note that the following is not medical advice. Only an experienced and licensed veterinarian can properly diagnose an illness or condition and provide treatment for your pet. With that said, every cat owner should know a bit about feline healthcare. This includes the illnesses they are more likely to suffer from than other pets, not the treatment. As we mentioned, treatment should be left to the professionals.

Hairballs

Cats like to take care of themselves. No offense to dogs, but they tend to be a bit more independent. A hairball is pretty much what it sounds like. It's a ball of hair that cats swallow during regular self-grooming routines and later have to hack or vomit up because they can't be digested. Of course, a cat doesn't do this on purpose. It is his instinct to try to clean himself, even if he isn't dirty.

Fortunately, hairballs aren't deadly. But they will make your cat uncomfortable and they will cause quite a mess. Regurgitated cat fur is not a pleasant thing to find lying around the house. In extreme cases, if your cat is a meticulous groomer, the accumulated hair in his intestines may cause digestive problems. It may cause decreased appetite, which often results in lethargy or fatigue. He may also have problems with constipation, since the accumulated hair in his intestines can make it difficult to get things out.

As we mentioned, if your cat is hacking up a storm and the problem seems to be getting worse, you should make an appointment with your veterinarian. The good news is that in the overwhelming majority of cases the treatment for hair balls is fast, effective, and affordable.

Your kitty's doctor will most likely prescribe a type of lubricant which makes it easier for the hair to pass through your cat. It typically comes in oral gel form and will stop your feline friend from coughing up his own hair. In addition, it is probably a good idea to brush your cat on a regular basis to remove loose hair, especially if he has long hair. This will prevent him from swallowing large and uncomfortable hairballs that he may not be able to pass.

Diabetes

Just like their owners, pets can get diabetes. This serious condition occurs when the pancreas fails to produce enough insulin or when the cells do not respond to the hormone as they should (insulin resistance). If it is not properly diagnosed in a timely manner, diabetes will cause early death.

The symptoms of feline diabetes often include increased appetite with no subsequent weight gain, even weight loss. This is because the lack of insulin is not allowing your cat to store fat as he should (insulin is essentially a fat-storing hormone). He may also drink and urinate more than he did before. As the disease takes hold of him, your cat will suffer from weakness and fatigue. In a younger cat, this should be relatively easy to observe. Lastly, when in the final throes of the disease, his breathing will become labored or stertorous and he may vomit or suffer from diarrhea. If your cat experiences any of these serious symptoms, take him to his veterinarian immediately!

Choosing the Right Cat Furniture for You and Your Cat



Cats are unique and have their own distinct personalities. However, they all share one common characteristic. All cats need their own comfort zone and cat furniture can provide that special place for them.

When deciding on what type of furniture to buy for your cat, take a close look at your cat's personality and lifestyle. Is your cat and indoor cat or an outdoor cat? Does your cat like to be secluded or out in the open? Does your cat prefer heights, or does he or she prefer to be near the ground? Is your cat a climber?

What are your preferences? Do you want the furniture to also provide your cat with activity, or do you simply want to provide them with a place to lounge? Do you care if your cat's furniture blends in with your decor, or is your cat's comfort all that matters? The number of cats in your home will also factor into how large or small your cat tree should be.

If you have an outdoor cat, the amount of activity the cat furniture can provide isn't as big of an issue as it is for indoor only cats. Outdoor cats should be getting plenty of mental stimulation and physical activity during his or her time out of the house. A simple place to lounge or even just a cat bed may be all your outdoor cat needs for their comfort zone.

However, if your cat doesn't leave the house, you may want to find a cat furniture model that can also stimulate your cat with some activity. Look for furniture with sisal covered scratching surfaces as all cats like to scratch. The sisal can be either rope or fabric and the scratching surface can be a board or a post. If your cat likes to climb, a scratching post is preferable to a board and it should be at least 32" high. The sisal post can be integrated into the furniture as a support post or it can be a stand alone, replaceable post. If you have a preference for a piece of furniture that doesn't include scratching surfaces, they can also be purchased as stand alone items. However, you'll probably end up paying more buying them "a la carte".

Be prepared to spend quite a bit of money if your cat likes both heights and seclusion. Several carpeted cat tree manufacturers provide enclosures near the top of the tree. These cat trees are quite large and can be a bit pricey. Large carpeted trees can also provide additional play activity with stuffed cat toys dangling from various tiers. When shopping for this type of tree, take special care to ensure that the base is large enough to prevent the tree from tipping, as they tend to be top heavy.

If the carpeted towers aren't your taste, there are several uncarpeted options from which you can choose. Because these trees are not carpeted, they are constructed from either higher quality, aesthetically pleasing materials or natural tree branches. Uncarpeted tree manufacturers don't use OSB or particle board as their primary material, therefore their material cost is higher than their carpeted counterparts. That is why many of the uncarpeted trees are more expensive than a carpeted tree of similar size. One nice advantage that the uncarpeted trees have to offer is that most manufacturers offer replacement wear surfaces. The wear surfaces are the areas that the cat lounges on or scratches. This can greatly increase the life of the uncarpeted furniture versus the life of their carpeted counterparts.

No matter what type of cat tree you decide to purchase, there are some common issues to be aware of. Make sure the tiers are comfortably spaced for your cat or cats. A vertical tier height spacing from 18" to 22" is ideal for most house cats. It gives them plenty of head clearance when they occupy the lower tier and allows them to place their paws on the higher tier before making the jump up. Pay as much attention to the size of the tiers as the quantity. A tree with large tiers can actually hold as many, or more cats, than a tree with more, but smaller tiers. As mentioned before, a large, stable base is essential.

If the furniture you are interested in buying is constructed with OSB, particle board, or MDF, be sure the material came from a Carb Certified Manufacturer. This ensures the material is free from potential formaldehyde emissions. Also, make sure the adhesives used are free from any dangerous toxins. Finally, make sure that there are no staples used on any of the exposed surfaces.

You may want to check to see if the furniture your are interested in has won any awards or other recognition for quality and innovation. Cat Fancy's Editors' Choice Awards are a good place to start. "The (Cat Fancy) editors are looking for innovative products that reflect quality, creativity and originality, and fill a need in the market. Safety and functionality are essential." The Catnip Newsletter (published by the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine) does monthly product reviews, and is another good resource. Catnip does not accept advertising, so their reviews are considered to by 100% unbiased.

There are more cat furniture choices available now than ever before and you can spend as much or as little as you like. Many models cost hundreds of dollars, so make sure to do your research before you decide which cat tower is right for you and your cats. If you have questions or concerns, don't be afraid to call or email the manufacturer.