3 Indisputable Reasons You Need a Cat Tree for Your Cat

Phone conversation, one side:

Yes sir, I understand, of course. No, I'm sorry, I honestly don't know how much it costs to maintain a retractable ladder. I will take care of it this time, I promise. Please tell the guys at the firehouse I really appreciate their help. It looks like Bill dropped a few pounds since he was here last! He's really nimble on that...yes sir...I'm sorry. Yes. Certainly. Thanks for your call. Give the wife my regards.

It's probably not a good thing for you - and your cat - to be on a first-name basis with the local fire chief and his crew. They're professionals who train, re-train and risk their lives serving and protecting others. Looking at the situation from their side, it's probably more than a little upsetting to take all that training and hard work rescuing your cat, from your tree - again - for a new town record of 10 times in two months. Looking back on it, maybe it wasn't such a hot idea to name the cat "Tarzan" after all.

If only Tarzan could belt out an ear-splitting yell like his movie character counterpart, you'd hear it: "I NEED A CAT TREE, EINSTEIN!"

Cat trees. Cat condos. Cat towers. Cat gyms. Cat furniture. Call it what you will, part living space, part toy, part claw sharpener, a cat tree can really be an entertaining and therapeutic accessory for your cat's healthy daily living. Right off the bat a scratching posts for cats is safer and healthier than getting plucked from the maple tree out front every few weeks.

If you've never seen a cat tree, it is a structure with poles for climbing, "boxes" with holes for clambering in and out, pedestals for sleeping (or launching oneself across the room). The Cat furniture can be simple or complex but they are designed as a place to keep your cat occupied.

Here are 3 indisputable reasons to get a cat tree for your cat.

Scratching.

You already know cats love to scratch - at least your couch is well aware of it. Because nearly every cat climbing tree is covered with some form of carpet material, it is a place for Tarzan to go when he absolutely positively has to give in to that primal urge to grab something with his claws and shred it. Saving your furniture - and maybe someone's gabardine slacks - is maybe the best reason for a cat tree.

Climbing.

Three words: Red Wine Incident. It seemed like a good idea to prominently feature that vintage magnum bottle of red French wine Claude sent. But, Tarzan's curiosity being what it is, CRASH! Cracking the marble counter top and exploding across the room, sending rivulets of red wine into the beige carpeting. Cat towers provide a safe outlet for a cat's natural need to climb. Designed with a wide base and sturdy structure, it will help keep Tarzan focused - and out of the maple.

Entertainment.

It isn't easy being a cat. People constantly fawning over you, providing food, shelter and a loving environment gets really boring. A cat tree is just the thing for your bored feline offering hours and hours of entertainment for Tarzan to play hide-and-go seek with that teddy bear you won at the fair a year ago.

Finally, it's a way to keep you in the good graces of the local fire department. Plus when you finally get the nerve to make grandma's recipe fried chicken, they'll be more willing to dash to your location - just in case.

How to Minimize Stress When Taking Your Cat to the Vet

Visiting the vet can be a stressful event for many kitties, but by using a few easily applied techniques you can substantially decrease your cat's anxiety levels. The following are some tips that will make trips to the veterinary clinic much more pleasant!

Find a Feline Practitioner

Not all communities have feline specific veterinary clinics, but if you do live in a region in which there are cat clinics, it's imperative that you take advantage of this!

Your cat's stress levels while waiting in the reception area of the clinic will be substantially less if they aren't sitting 1 or 2 metres away from a loudly barking German shepherd dog!

To look for a feline specific clinic in your area, search the American Association of Feline Practitioners website for all AAFP registered clinics in North America.

Find an ABVP Feline Practice Board-Certified Diplomate

Not all communities will have board-certified feline specialists either, but it's always worth looking because if there is an ABVP Diplomate (American Board of Veterinary Practitioners) in your area, it is another great resource for you and your kitty!

ABVP Feline Practice Diplomates are veterinarians who have completed the intensive ABVP species-specific (feline) clinical practice residency program (a minimum of two years), and who have successfully passed the ABVP Specialty Exam.

To search for a Feline Diplomate near you, visit the ABVP website and click on the "Find a Diplomate" button. ( http://www.abvp.com/ )

Have a cat carrier

Cat carriers tend to be inexpensive, although there certainly are some pricey models available these days as well. It's well worth investing in at least a regular, mainstream carrier for your cat, since over the course of your cat's lifetime you will need to travel with them repeatedly.

Some cat owners bring their cats to the clinic by placing them inside gym bags, suitcases, cardboard boxes, laundry baskets, and other such improvised versions of cat carriers. This is an unwise decision for multiple reasons.

Part of an improvised carrier needs to remain open so the cat inside can breathe which means that they can easily escape from it. Cats will often seize the opportunity to jump out while they are being carried through clinic parking lots, which are highly dangerous places since they can easily be hit by cars.

Gym bags, duffel bags, purses, and other such items have no firm structure to them since they aren't built to support animals, unlike soft sided cat carriers. Without sturdy bottoms in their carrying bags cats feel unsupported and insecure which greatly increases stress levels and may even cause them to panic.

Additionally, improvised bags don't have nice familiar odours inside so they don't impart any sense of comfort to cats since they are not items which kitties use regularly in the home.

Carrying cats from the car to the clinic in one's arms is even more dangerous than using improvised carriers since cats can escape even more easily in this kind of scenario.

Cats are already tense and a bit frightened after experiencing the car ride to the clinic, and are prone to bolting - many clinics are situated on busy roads, and I have seen more than one cat unexpectedly get away from owners that were intending carry them into the clinic!

Have the RIGHT carrier

Carrier should be large enough that cats can comfortably stand up and turn around... you might be surprised to know how frequently cats arrive in clinics squeezed inside kennels that they outgrew 10 years prior when they entered adulthood!

Carriers best suited for going to the vet are ones with snap tops that are easily removed. These are extremely handy because cats can remain comfy and snug in the bottom half of the carrier through the majority of their exam, and can then be gently lifted out when better access is needed to complete the exam or perform procedures. This method of extracting cats from their carriers is far less stressful than 'dumping' them out of their carriers.

Keep your cat's carrier out & available for their use at all times

Your cat's carrier should not be associated only with use for trips to the vet clinic and other stressful events such as air travel, otherwise your cat will associate the carrier with these negative experiences - upon seeing the carrier your cat's fear and anxiety levels will amplify instantaneously, irrespective of why you have brought it out of storage.

If the cat carrier only appears out of the front hall closet the day before a trip to the veterinarian's office, your cat will quickly learn that it's time to go into hiding until the carrier disappears from view once again!... Chasing your cat down and retrieve them from underneath the bed only results in heightened stress levels for both of you before you've even left the home, and can also result in missed veterinary appointments.

Place a comfortable pad or blanket in the bottom of the carrier.

Your cat should consider their carrier a safe haven, a place that they frequent for little cat naps - the carrier should be associated with a sense of security and their home environment so that when your kitty travels in their carrier they know that they are inside their safe haven.

What to put inside the carrier (aside from your cat!)

As mentioned above, the carrier should be a comfortable environment with a familiar cushion or blanket inside.

Many cats like to burrow themselves and hide under their blankets when they are stressed, so this not only provides them with familiar smells, but also allows them to retreat underneath when they are stressed.

Provide some treats and familiar toys in the carrier to create a positive association with being inside the carrier.

This should be done not only when traveling to the vet clinic, but also on a regular basis at home.

Pheromones!

There is now a synthetic version of cats' 'happy pheromone.' Kitties naturally produce this happy pheromone within skin glands that are located by their cheeks.

When cats are happy and content they rub up against people and nearby objects, depositing their happy cat facial pheromones all around them.

The synthetic form of this molecule is called Feliway, and is fairly inexpensive.

Use of the synthetic version can greatly decrease cats' anxiety levels while travelling!

To use Feliway:

Spray the entire inner surface of the carrier as well as the blanket inside, with Feliway, starting 24 hours before the veterinary visit. Repeat this at least four times during the 24 hour period prior to the visit in order to build up a good coating of Feliway in the carrier. Don't spray the carrier and place your cat immediately within it - leave at least 15 minutes because alcohol is one of the carrier molecules in Feliway and should have time to evaporate since cats don't enjoy the scent of alcohol!

Desensitize your cat to car travel

A significant stressor when bringing a cat to the vet is the transportation which leads to their arrival at the clinic... car rides often put cats into panic mode long before they even set paw inside the clinic itself!

Car rides are an infrequent experience for most cats. Cars are also noisy and mobile. Many cats don't cope well with new situations, let alone situations involving engine noises and fast, unpredictable movements.

Car travel is like an overwhelming sensory assault to cats; it creates simultaneous auditory, visual, olfactory, and tactile stimuli and there is no time during which cats can acclimate to the situation. This kind of travel experience creates negative associations in cats' minds, and they will not relish future repeats of the experience!

To help your cat deal more effectively with transportation the solution is helping your cat slowly adjust to the experience in small increments. Once your cat is accustomed to being in the car, take your cat for car rides that don't end up at the veterinary office so they don't automatically associate car trips with vet visits!

Ideally cats should be acclimatized to travel in kittenhood, but later in life is still better than never.

Place your cat in your car without starting the engine. Don't go anywhere, simply allow your cat to explore a bit and just sit in his or her carrier, becoming familiar with the car's appearance and smells. Provide lots of treats, praise, and positive attention.

Once your cat has been inside the car multiple times and seems fairly comfortable with it, then place your cat in the car and start the engine. Again, do not go anywhere, just allow your kitty to understand that the noise of the engine is not a threat, it is simply a background noise.

Once your cat is accustomed to the noise of the engine and the feel of its vibrations, go for your first short car ride. Keep your cat safely enclosed in their carrier, take turns slowly and gently, and do not open the windows or have music playing. Drive slowly around the block or just around the parking lot and that will be enough for your cat's first ride.

Next, take your kitty for a longer drive. Again, go slowly, keep the windows closed and the car radio off. The motion of the car ride alone, combined with the sight of other vehicles on the road and the traffic noise will be more than enough for your cat to contend with.

Again, reward your cat with lots of treats, praise, and stroking once the drive is over but you are still in the vehicle. When you return home, give your cat one of their favourite foods - tuna, liver bits, cooked turkey, or whatever they love most!

Once your cat knows how to cope with travel it won't be a major stressor when you need to transport them to the vet clinic - it will simply be one of many little rides they have experienced and they'll know that there will be a delicious meal awaiting them upon their return home!

Your cat's demeanor inside the vet clinic

When a cat is in a clinic they may behave in ways they have never behaved at home. They may growl, hiss, swat, be generally uncooperative, or even try to bite. These actions do NOT mean that they are "bad cats" - they are simply frightened and are reacting to what they perceive as a scary situation with natural defensive feline behaviour.

Some owners admonish their cats if they believe their cat is 'misbehaving' in a veterinary office. Some go so far as to yell aggressively, tap or smack their cat on the nose or head, or they even spank their cat's rear end. This should NEVER ever be done.

This form of 'discipline' may be a reaction to owners' embarrassment about their cat's behaviour, but it's critical to know that these are normal cat behaviours and veterinarians understand this better than anyone! There is no need to apologize or feel embarrassed about feisty cat behaviour because vets will not think these frisky cats are "bad cats" - veterinarians deal with fractious kitties on a daily basis and are trained to handle scared, aggressive cats in a safe and gentle manner.

Yelling at a cat, or worse, tapping or smacking them, only serves to heighten the their stress levels, and is always a BAD idea. Yelling at and smacking a cat makes the kitty even more frightened and reactive - not only are they now in a foreign environment but their one source of comfort and familiarity, their owner, has become scary and foreign as well.

'Punishing' a cat makes the veterinarian's job of handling the frightened cat even harder. Additionally, it creates a negative memory of the clinic in the cat's mind which means that the next visit will be even more stressful than the last one, and the cat may behave even more defensively.

The best action to take if your cat is upset, is to pet and reassure them when your veterinarian requests that you help them by providing positive distractions during their physical exam. Otherwise, it's best not to interfere until your veterinarian is finished. Once the exam is over, lots of praise, treats, and positive attention are warranted.

Social time at the clinic!

An excellent way of teaching your cat that a visit to the clinic is not a scary event, is to bring your cat in for visits when he or she does not require an exam or procedure of any kind.

Call your veterinary clinic in advance to ensure that it is a good time to visit - you do not want to impede work happening at the clinic if they are extremely busy, and you also do not want the visit to be too overwhelming for your kitty if it is a bit chaotic at the time of your planned visit. For instance, mornings when surgical procedures are being done may be a convenient time - the clinic will not be busy in the waiting room and exam rooms, and your kitty may be allowed to spend lots of time exploring the reception area and elsewhere.

Bring some food along for your cat, and feed him or her in one of the exam rooms if possible. Play with some toys and some catnip, and see if one or two staff members of the clinic are available to play with your cat for a short period of time.

Practice makes perfect

Train your cat to accept certain kinds of physical manipulation that are similar to routine procedures done at veterinary clinics. If your cat is used to these procedures at home, then veterinary exams will be less stressful and will be better tolerated by your cat.

Slowly teach your kitty to accept having their paws touched, nails unsheathed, being groomed, having their teeth brushed, ears cleaned, and having their belly's touched.

Start practicing with your cat as soon as you can - from kittenhood ideally, but training your cat in adulthood can work as well.

To read more articles by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. © 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.

I Just Adopted a Kitten: What Do I Need to Take Care of My Kitten?

Congratulations on the furry new addition to your family!

Here is a list of essential items that you need to get started with your kitten:

Kitten Food

Grain & soy free canned kitten food and grain free dry kitten food.

Feed your kitten 95% canned food, and complement it with a tiny amount of dry kitten food on a daily basis to give your kitten something to exercise their jaws on (depending on its age) since they will be teething over the next several months.

NOTE: You do not need to be concerned with rationing your kitten's calories for quite some time... your kitten can essentially eat as much food as they like because they will be developing muscle and bone tissue, and will need a lot of calories to do so! So, let your little feline enjoy as much canned food as they wish to consume! It is quite rare for a young kitten to become obese; your veterinarian will advise you about calorie rationing when your cat is approximately 1 year old.

Food & Water Dishes

Although many pet store kitten starter kits include plastic food and water dishes along with a litter box and scoop, avoid purchasing these! It is healthier for your kitty to eat and drink from glass, ceramic, or steel dishes, rather than from carcinogenic plastic dishes - just as it is for us as well! Additionally, most cats have a notable preference for glass, ceramic, or steel dishes over plastic ones, because they do not leech undesirable stale tastes into their water and food. This is because glass, ceramic, and steel dishes are far more easily cleaned and sterilized since, unlike plastic, they are not porous materials: more convenient for you and tastier for your kitty! Many cats who eat and drink from plastic food and water dishes suffer from feline chin acne as a result of chronic daily contact with them. This common skin reaction to plastic is yet another good reason that plastic dishes best avoided!

Your kitten should have easy access to food and water, so if you have a multiple level home, food and water should be available for your kitten on each level

Remember to clean and refresh your kitten's water supply on a daily basis! - Don't let water become old and stale, and definitely do not let water dishes go dry!

Litter Box

A great perk of adopting a kitten is that there is typically no 'house-training' period whatsoever! It is instinctual for cats to seek out a dirt-like substrate in which they can dig, do their 'business' in, and then bury the evidence! The only tasks required of you are:

showing your kitten where the litter box is located,

ensuring the litter box set-up is appropriate

maintaining its cleanliness!

A good litter box is open (not enclosed), shallow-sided, large & roomy, is easily accessible (ie. not hidden away in the basement), and not located in a high traffic or noisy location (eg. next to the washer and dryer)

Like the food and water dishes, litter boxes should be available on all floors in the home, and they should NOT be located by the food and water dishes (we don't really like to eat and drink in the washroom, and neither do our kitties! They are particularly hygiene-conscious creatures and those two types of activities do not mix any better for kitties than they do for us!)

Litter

Clumping litter is preferable because it facilitates cleaning the litter box on a daily basis without the build-up of ammonia from urine, and it also enables you to track the volume and frequency with which your kitten urinates • Unscented and non-dusty litter is best, and it should be kept several inches deep to provide a nice comfortable substrate for your kitten.

Scoop daily, top up the litter weekly, and empty & clean the box monthly Litter Trapping Mat • Small plastic, rubber, or fabric litter mats help catch litter bits that are tracked outside the box by your kitty coming and going, as well as litter that gets kicked out of the box as a result of your kitten's digging and burying actions. Litter mats are most useful when placed directly beside the entrance/exit of litter boxes where the highest volume of litter is tracked.

You can buy litter mats in pet stores or get crafty and make your own!

My favorite type of mat are those made of rubber; they're extremely effective at trapping litter, and are soft and comfortable on kitty's paws (which many other litter mats, such as ridged plastic mats are not)! Try Petmate Litter Catcher Mats, and also keep a handheld broom & dust pan handy for those stray litter particles.

Nail Clippers

Trimming your kitten's claws from a young age is a good idea because they become accustomed to having their paws handled, and in addition, kitten nails feel like little needles when they grow long! Ouch!

Small-sized pet nail clippers work well, but human nail clippers also work if you already have a pair. Give lots of praise and treats while trimming your kitten's nails, and be careful not to cut into the pink part of the claw (that's the equivalent of cutting into the pink part of your own nail!)!! Scratching post

Grooming claws and stretching their digital tendons and muscles are instinctive feline behaviors which start at a young age... so it is best to be prepared and have scratching posts in place when you bring your kitten home, rather than getting started on the wrong 'paw' (eg. your kitten using your favorite arm chair for scratching)!

Not all cats enjoy the same types of scratching posts, so if your kitten does not use the first one you try, do not be shocked... try rubbing catnip on it, try posts with different inclines (horizontal, oblique, vertical), different materials (sisal rope, carpet, cardboard), and make sure they are steady posts with wide, firm bases that will not topple over or move around while being used by your kitten.

Toys

If you plan on feeding your kitty a small amount of dry food each day, it is best to have your kitten 'hunt' it by using a kibble/treat dispensing ball - these are fun, mentally stimulating, and your kitty will be impossibly cute when playing with them.

Some examples are 'SlimCat MultiVet' balls, and 'Play N' Treat' balls - these allow your kitten to exercise both body and mind because they must manipulate the balls in order to get the kibble pieces to fall out... cats are natural predators and food that is available in a bowl is just plain boring!

Cats enjoy toy mice, catnip, cat-grass, laser pointers and many other forms of entertainment. Because cats become quickly bored of their toys though, it is best to have a rotating schedule of what toys are available to them - ie. keep toys hidden in a closet and pull out four different ones each week, so that they are 'new' again.

To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.

A Brief History of the Domestic Cat and Understanding Your Cat's Behavior

Understanding normal cat behavior is essential when establishing and cultivating a relationship with your feline that is mutually rewarding. Being in tune with the your cat's behaviors and how they communicate with you enables you in maintaining and continually improving your cat's quality of life.

Cats are just like small dogs, aren't they?

Definitely not! Cats are very social creatures, BUT their social behaviors and communication methods differ greatly from dogs.

Are cats always solitary creatures?

Not always! While it's true that cats are not 'pack' animals like dogs, the domestic cat is not as solitary an animal as was once believed. Domestic cats frequently DO live in social groups. Group living may be by choice (e.g. feral cat colonies) or may be secondary to circumstances beyond their control (e.g. multi-cat households).

The number of cats within feline colonies varies significantly; cats may live in large colonies and develop unique relationships with various colony members, or they may live in small, modest colonies. Cat groups typically form hierarchies, and strange new cats are not always welcome to the group: in fact, unfamiliar cats are frequently chased away, and it can be a long, difficult road for a cat to achieve acceptance into a group.

Thus, while it is true that cats can, and do, live happy solitary lives, they are ALWAYS solitary creatures. Many kitties are content to live alone, but now we also know that cats DO form social living groups too. What is the moral of the story? Cats have very flexible social requirements; cats are not only physically flexible, but companionably as well!

Cats have remained the way nature & evolution intended them to be - purrrfect!

Unlike dogs, today's domestic cat (non-purebred cat) is not far removed from its original ancestors with respect to its physique and behavior, and this is part of the cat's charm and appeal. Until recently cats have been lucky enough to have escaped humankind's desire to create "breeds" through inbreeding and selection for genetic mutations. While there now do exist cats that are bred for deformities, specific types of coats (or lack thereof), certain behavioral traits, and so on, the majority of today's cat population is made up of healthy, normal, and beautiful cats.

African Wild Cat descent

Modern cats are thought to have descended from African Wild Cats which are still found in deserts throughout Africa. Ancient Egyptians had significant influence on the domestication of the African Wild Cat because they revered felines and considered them to be sacred animals. In Europe, Christianity lowered cats' status but cats did succeed eventually in becoming popular domestic pets for the purpose of rodent control. Over time, the African Wild Cat hybridized with the jungle cat and European Wild Cat.

Behavioral development

Cats are often considered to form stronger attachments to their environment than dogs, and to then form secondary social bonds to the humans and animals within their environments (although many of us cat owners would beg to differ!). Many cats do not cope well with changes in their environments. Cats' ability to cope with new stimuli is strongly influenced by their genetic inheritance. There are two broad genetic categories of cats with respect to 1) capability to face novel situations and animate beings, and 2) the tendency to respond to these stimuli with aggressive behavior versus acceptance.

Neophilic cats have a significant tolerance for novel stimuli (both animate and inanimate) and neophobic cats are those that do not. But, despite the fact that both aggression and tolerance for novel situations have a genetic basis, owners can help decrease their cats' genetic predispositions to neophobia and aggression by properly socializing kittens by exposing them to new people, animals, and places during the appropriate developmental periods.

Just like people, cats have particularly sensitive periods when social behaviors and skills are developed. The most important time for cats to be socialized to humans is between the ages of 3 and 9 weeks. During this time frame, kittens are also learning how to play and interact with one another, and are developing important skills such as bite inhibition. Social play peaks at 3 months of age, and cats' personalities mature between 2 and 3 years of age. Cats' personality traits, like humans, are both genetic and a result of early social experiences and environmental factors. Cats that have not been regularly, and pleasantly, handled by humans before the age of 14 weeks, are more prone to being fearful, reserved, and even aggressive in human encounters, regardless of their genetic tendencies.

When a kitten is adopted, it is important to spend time gradually socializing them to men, women, children (under supervision and with gentle handling), other kittens and cats, and new inanimate objects. However, always be sure to provide escapes, or 'outs,' for the kitten, such as perches, cat beds, and secluded areas so that they may retreat to if feeling uncomfortable. This way the kitten does not feel trapped in the encounter, and will be far more relaxed and receptive to all interactions and to simply observing the situations. Provide treats, toys, and other forms of stimulation to make the experiences positive and fun.

Essential Cat Behavior Facts for Cat Owners:

- Physical pain and illness are most commonly recognized by owners as behavioral changes. If you recognize a sudden, or a slowly developing, behavioral change in your cat, it is best that you make an appointment with your veterinarian. - Never physically or verbally punish a cat for performing unwanted behaviors. Ignoring undesirable behavior is the most effective means of stopping it.

- Scratching is a natural cat behavior that involves grooming claws, stretching muscles, and leaving territorial marking pheromones behind. Simply direct this normal cat behavior to surfaces of your choosing so that your home does not incur damage from your cat's scratching habits.

- Petting aggression is normal in many adult cats, and avoiding injury or unpleasant interactions with a petting-aggressive cat is as simple as shortening interaction lengths, and learning to recognize the early warning signs of aggression onset.

- Predatory behavior in cats is normal, even when cats are not hungry. To prevent your cat from hunting birds and animals, an outdoor enclosure, or leash-walking should be used.

- Introductions to new cats need to happen very gradually and with proper guidance. Seek the advice of your veterinarian if you plan to introduce a new cat to your household.

- Contrary to popular belief, cats that urinate and/or defecate outside of the litter box do not do this to "get back at" their owners. There is commonly an underlying medical issue causing discomfort upon elimination, or, there may be an easy solution that involves ameliorating the litter box situation at home, and it was simply that the original situation was suboptimal.

- Cats are trainable with positive reinforcement and methods such as clicker training. Starting at a young age can help accelerate willingness to learn, and can be used to encourage helpful behaviors such as tolerating certain types of handling such as checking ears and teeth.

- Cats can become easily fixated on one type of food, and this may become problematic if dietary changes are required for health reasons later in life. It is important to introduce cats to a variety of shapes, sizes, tastes, and textures of food so that they do not become resistant to changes if they are needed later in life.

- Cats express stress with hiding, withdrawal, dilated pupils, increased respiratory rates, flattened ears, crouched postures, and hissing and growling. However, long term stress may be expressed by more subtle changes such as decreased grooming behavior, less playing, decreased social interaction, and poor appetite.

For more detailed information regarding particular behavioral issues and questions, please refer to our library of specific behavior topics, or call your veterinarian if you are concerned about a sudden serious behavioral change in your cat.

To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. © 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.

What's Up With Cats and Heights?

Ever wonder why your cat is able to land on its feet almost every time he or she falls or jumps from seemingly all heights? Ever wonder why cats are able to survive falls from 10+ stories with barely any scratches and yet cats that fall from lesser heights such as 4 stories often sustain fatal, or near-fatal, injuries? Have you heard the term 'high-rise syndrome' applied to cats and wondered what it meant? Do you wonder what you can do to protect your cat from heights? Let's explore this fascinating and important topic!

How are cats able to consistently land on their paws when they fall?

Cats have an innate ability to right themselves in mid-air when they fall from an inverted position. This is usually referred to as the 'righting reflex' but is also known as the 'labyrinthine reflex' and occasionally is also categorized as a 'neck righting reflex.' The term righting reflex is actually a bit misleading because it infers that there is one reflex that is triggered when a cat falls, when in actuality, there is a sequence of reflexes that take place in order for the end result to be that the cat lands on its paws. The combination of reflexes that compose the sum effect of the righting reflex are: the labyrinthine righting reflexes, the optic righting reflexes, body righting reflexes, and cervical righting reflexes.

When cats fall they gather information from their vestibular system, which contains the labyrinth of the inner ear and is responsible for equilibrioception, or, in other words, is responsible for spatial orientation and balance. They also gather visual information to help them assess what direction is up and what direction is down, and, with a combination of other sensory input, and their flexible spines and rudimentary collarbones, cats are able to quickly orient and right themselves. Cats begin to develop this reflex at about 3-4 weeks, and it is typically functioning at 7 weeks of age.

How are cats able to survive falls from great heights?

There are multiple factors that enable cats to sustain fewer injuries from particular heights in comparison with humans. Cats are relatively small and light, have flexible spines, thick fur, and they reach a much slower terminal velocity relative to humans. The terminal velocity that a falling cat reaches is the constant speed at which they fall when they have reached their maximal acceleration and are no longer gaining velocity. Cats reach a terminal velocity of approximately 100 km//hr, whereas humans reach a terminal velocity of approximately 210 km/hr, and, fortunately for cats, they reach their terminal velocity at a height around 5 stories, whereas humans tend to reach terminal velocity at a height of around 32 stories.

Cats employ their excellently developed righting reflexes, and once they reach their terminal velocity their vestibular systems are less stimulated, and instead of maintaining rigid body posture, they relax. Once cats reach this more relaxed state, they spread their limbs horizontally to increase drag in the air, and to more evenly distribute the forces of their impact when they hit the ground.

Studies have shown that cats that fall from heights greater than 5 stories are better able to survive because they are able to employ the above survival techniques. Cats tend to sustain more serious injuries when they are not able to reach terminal velocity and relax. That said, cats can receive fatal injuries when they fall from any height, and every fall has the potential to be traumatic or even deadly.

What is "High-Rise Syndrome"?

High-rise syndrome is the term used when cats fall from heights greater than 2 stories, including the injuries sustained from the fall. Unfortunately, despite the fact that high-rise syndrome is 100% preventable, it is seen very commonly in the veterinary industry, particularly during summer months when owners open windows and leave balcony doors open.

High-rise syndrome frequently involves chest trauma such as bruised lungs, pneumothoraxes (air trapped in the chest cavity from lacerated airway tissues), and broken ribs. Frequently there are fractures to limbs, and sometimes spinal fractures. High-rise syndrome frequently causes traumatic myocarditis, which is injury sustained by the heart. Oro-facial trauma is common and can include a fractured jaw, fractured skull, fractured teeth, and fractured palate. One of the scariest components of high-rise syndrome is the damage that is much less visibly obvious - damage to organs of the abdominal cavity. Cats that fall from heights frequently suffer from bruised and bleeding organs such as liver, spleen, and kidneys, and can even have these organs rented, or avulsed, from their locations within the abdominal cavity.

What can you do to secure your cat's safety from heights?

Secure all windows! Cats are notorious for jumping/falling out of windows! They are easily stimulated by birds flying by, bugs, and other attractive stimuli. Even if you live in a house in which the highest window is two stories above ground, it is still essential to ensure the windows have very secure screens in place. As you now know, cats are more prone to suffering greater injuries when they fall from lesser heights than those that fall from greater heights (6 stories and above).

Fence in balconies all balconies! Balconies are another cause for "high-rise syndrome." Just because a balcony is high does not mean that your cat will not jump or fall off of it - loud noises or construction may startle them so that they reflexively back away off of the railing or between the railings, or a bird flying past can create a great enough stimulus that they leap for it without thinking twice about how high up the balcony is. Balconies should be fenced from the ground to the bottom of balcony above so that jumping off is an impossibility - there are many types of aesthetic fencing options available that will pass most building standards because they are visually unobtrusive. Also, consider using a harness and leash while allowing your cat on the balcony - supervision and restraint are the most certain methods of ensuring your cats safety.

Do not use childproof window guards since cats can fit through them.

What should you do if your cat sustains a fall?

If your cat has fallen from any height (even a single story!) it is imperative that you bring to your veterinarian immediately. Symptoms of internal damage may not become obvious to you at home immediately, and by the time they do, it may be too late to effectively help your cat. There is much that your veterinarian can detect from a physical exam that you will be unable to assess at home by simple observation of your cat, and early intervention and supportive care will be crucial to your cat's survival. Even if your cat is eating, drinking, and acting altogether 'normal,' it is still best to have your cat checked out by your vet! Cats have high survival rates when they receive immediate veterinary treatment post-fall.

To read more articles by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.

How to Give Your Cat Pills

So, you and your cat are back home after a visit to the vet. You have two bottles of medication in your hand and instructions to medicate your cat three times (eek!) per day. You aren't quite sure how your cat will feel about this plan. You anxiously glance at your kitty, now curled up comfortably on the couch. Kitty opens one eye which boldly stares back at you... the look in kitty's eye is unmistakable. It says, "just you try to medicate me, Human. By the time you've made your last futile attempt, YOU will be the one needing a visit with the doctor and some medication." But, don't panic! There are lots of tricks available to help you medicate your cat in an effective, relaxed, and danger-free manner!

Pill Pockets

Pill pockets work best for food motivated kitties. They come in two tasty flavors, salmon and chicken.

Pill pockets are hollow, soft treats into which you place the tablet or capsule and then 'mush' the opening of the pill pocket closed so that the medication does not fall out.

Disadvantages to pill pockets are that cats that are not food motivated are unlikely to voluntarily eat them.

Another disadvantage is that if your cat accidentally bites into the pill pocket and tastes an unpalatable medication inside, they will be unlikely to ever be fooled by pill pockets again! Also, some cats will learn to eat all around the pill, consuming just the pill pocket and leaving the medication behind.

Flavored Chews

For long term medication options, flavored chewable treats are a very pleasant option.

Medicated chews need to be compounded by your veterinarian's compounding pharmacy, and do tend to be more expensive than the regular drug.

Compounding flavored chews works best for medications that are not particularly strong tasting and unpleasant, otherwise cats may still detect the taste of the medication and reject the chew treat (ie. many antibiotics cannot be successfully made into flavored chews).

To figure out what flavor your cat prefers before ordering a large quantity of medicated chews, ask your veterinarian to try non-medicated samples: generally flavored chews come in varieties such as tuna, chicken, liver, shrimp, seafood medley, and beef.

Flavored Liquids

Flavored medications in liquid form also need to be specially compounded by your veterinarian's compounding pharmacy, and are also available in a variety of flavors palatable to cats.

Many people find liquids easier to administer to their cats than pills.

Liquids (non-flavored)

Many medications come in liquid form as well as pill form.

Liquids are not necessarily any more tasty in comparison to their pill counterpart (most are sweetened for human consumption and are banana or cherry flavored - since cats cannot taste sweetness, all that they taste is the flavor of the medication itself), but many owners find liquids easier to administer than pills.

Ask your veterinarian if there is a liquid form of the medication they have prescribed if you are having trouble giving your cat the pill form.

Keeping the liquid in the fridge (unless the medication specifically cannot be kept at such a cool temperature) may help decrease the distastefulness of the medication and make it less unpleasant for your cat to swallow.

Clear Gel Capsules

Many medications have very strong, unpalatable tastes - when these medications are prescribed in tablet form they can be particularly unpleasant, and often chalky, for cats to swallow.

Particularly when a medication is being administered long term, placing tablets into clear, flavorless gel capsules can be an excellent idea - your cat will likely resent the entire procedure much less if it does not involve an unpleasant taste that makes he or she salivate for ten minutes afterwards.

Clear gel capsules can typically be obtained at your veterinarian's office, and if they are not routinely kept in hospital, then they can likely order some in particular for you.

Some tablets may be too large to fit inside the gel capsules, so you may want to purchase a pill splitter at your pharmacy in order to cut up the tablets into halves or quarters that will fit more easily into the gel caps.

The drawback to using gel capsules is that they start to dissolve as soon as they touch moisture - ie. as soon as they are inside your cat's mouth!

So, the key here with gel capsules is to ensure that you have your pilling technique finessed and to always have extra water syringes nearby so that you can flush the capsule down with more water if needed (ie. if the capsules becomes 'stuck' to your cats tongue or roof of the mouth).

Pilling Techniques & Steps:

Step I: Organize Supplies

It is essential to everything you need prepared and ready to gobefore you approach your kitty to administer their medication. Have your pills ready on your right side (or if you are left-handed, have them on your left side). Have your syringes filled with water ready alongside the pills

It is IMPERATIVE that you administer water to your cat to help him or her swallow their medication. It is unfair and unsafe to assume that cats can swallow their medication without the help of water, and this is a topic that is all too often neglected when educating owners on how to medicate their cats. Studies have proven that cats that are forced to 'dry swallow' their medications do not successfully swallow their medications all the way down the length of their esophagus - in fact, after 5 minutes post dry swallow, only 36% of cats had the pills in their stomachs.

The esophagus is a very thin, delicate tissue, and it is not protected from caustic substances by a thick mucus layer as the thick, tough stomach walls are.

This means that when medications dissolve within the esophagus, as they do when cats are forced to dry swallow them, the esophagus is vulnerable to sustaining serious and painful injury from the dissolving medication.

Unfortunately, your cat cannot alert you to the fact that this is happening, and that they are experiencing painful 'heartburn,' but it is the reality of forcing them to swallow medications without water - most cats will simply withdraw after being pilled, and many owners assume that this is a result of the stress of the pilling event, and do not recognize it as an expression of pain.

Step II: Methods of Restraint - "Kitty Burrito" Technique

It is important to know that frequently 'less is more' with cats when it comes to restraint and physical manipulation. The more practice you get at administering medications to your cat, the easier it will become. So have patience, and remember that practice will make perfect. As you become more proficient at this task, the less stressful the event will be for your cat, the less protestation they will make, and as a result it will become even easier to accomplish.

Occasionally owners are anxious about restraining their cats and ensuring that their kitty cannot escape while they are administering their medication(s). One method of restraining your cat effectively and in a manner that does not increase his or her stress level, is by making a 'kitty burrito.' (Ultimately, it is best if minimal restraint is used, but during the learning curve, it is acceptable to ensure that your cat cannot escape from you and further complicate the process.)

To use the 'kitty burrito' technique, follow these steps:

Place a towel on the floor in front of you.

Place your cat on the towel so that they are lying down (upright), facing away from you.

Wrap the towel around your cat just like you would wrap a present or a burrito, leaving your cat's head uncovered, but both forelimbs snugly tucked inside the towel.

Place your feline 'burrito' on the floor between your knees facing away from you. Cats enjoy feeling snug and secure, and wrapping them in a towel will decrease the amount of struggling they will do.

Minimal Restraint Technique

If not using the 'burrito' technique, simply ensure that your cat is facing away from you, and then approach your cat from behind. This can be done while your cat is on a table, or on the floor, but generally speaking it is easiest when accomplished sitting on the floor with your cat.

Place one hand on your cat's chest so that they do not run away while you are getting organized. The reason you want your cat to be facing away from you is because this way they have nowhere to back into (because they will back into you), and with one hand lightly on their chest, they cannot run away either.

Step III: Opening Your Cat's Mouth

My Favorite Technique

Gently tilt your cat's head upward. Place your left hand (that was previously on your cat's chest) under their chin and apply slow and steady pressure in an upward motion.

When your cat is looking up at you, place your right index fingertip between your cat's lips and you will be able to feel a gap between their upper and lower jaws where there is a space between their teeth. The space is just behind their canine teeth and in front of their premolars. f you poke your finger in this small space, your cat will automatically open up their mo

When your cat opens their mouth for that split second, with your right hand (which has the pill ready), pop the pill as far back into the throat as possible.

Traditional Technique

With your left hand grasp your cat's upper jaw and gently pull their head (and upper jaw) upward.

Your thumb is placed on the right upper jaw while your index and middle finger hold your cat's left jaw.

Your fingers should be just behind your cat's canine teeth when grasping their upper jaw.

With your right hand pick up your cat's pill between your thumb and forefinger, and then placed your middle finger on the front aspect of your cat's lower jaw.

Your middle finger is used to pry your cat's jaws apart by placing it on your cat's lower incisors - cats' incisors are small and dull, so you will not be injured by this maneuver.

Apply gentle but steady pressure on your cat's lower jaw until their mouth is open.

With your cat's mouth open, quickly drop the pill as far back as you can to the base of the tongue.

Note: The traditional technique requires a bit more physical manipulation, which is why I prefer the previous technique ("My Favorite Technique").

"Traditional" and "Favorite" Techniques with Pill Popper

Many people are hesitant when it comes to the "dropping the pill down to the base of the tongue" part of pilling their cats, and understandably so! If you fear for the safety of your fingers, or your kitty is simply a pro at preventing you from placing the pill far enough inside their mouth, then the pill popper may quickly become your favorite new acquisition. The pill popper is a long, thin plastic tube with a rubber tip on one end and a stylet inside of it.

Place the pill inside the rubber tip.

Use either technique to open your cat's mouth, and then gently insert the pill popper into your cat's mouth and push the stylet. The stylet handle is on the opposite end of the pill popper from the rubber tip and, when pushed, it pops the pill out of the rubber tip and into your cat's mouth.

Notes on All Three Techniques

It takes practice to gain the confidence required to pop the pill all the way to the base of the tongue in your cat's mouth! It is normal to feel slightly skittish about sticking your fingers so far in there, but the more you practice, the less frightening it will seem, and you will quickly come to appreciate why the pills must be placed all the way back there; they will not be spat out! So don't worry if pilling your kitty doesn't come naturally at first... both you and your cat will grow accustomed to the routine with time and practice.

Step IV: Water to Swallow the Pill

Now that the pill is successfully (hopefully!) at the back of your cat's mouth, place your left hand back underneath their chin and apply gentle upward pressure. Your cat's jaw must remain parallel to the floor because if your cat gets their head down, they can spit out their pill more easily.

With the lower jaw held gently closed, and their head parallel to the floor or slightly upturned, pill expulsion is less likely to occur.

With your right hand, grasp the filled water syringe, and gently place the tip between your cat's lips. The syringe tip does not actually need to be forced into the oral cavity between your cat's teeth.

Simply depress the plunger gently with the tip of the syringe resting on the lower lip, and your cat will do the rest and swallow it, rather than allow the water to dribble all over their impeccable fur!

Notes on Water Administration

My personal preference is to use 3 ml syringes. Some people prefer the 1 ml syringes rather than the slightly bulkier 3 ml syringes.

The syringe tip which is placed between the lips should always be small and unobtrusive. If the tip is bulky, your cat may resist its presence.

Syringe tip shape, length, and width may vary somewhat depending on the brand and size of the syringe.

One of my favorite tricks is to use teat canulas on the ends of my water syringes! Teat canulas are meant for cow udders. Teat canulas are thin, flexible, elongated plastic tips that can be placed on the ends of the syringes... they are smaller, longer, and softer than the tips of the syringes, so they make great extension tips for giving water or liquid medications orally to cats!

I generally administer the entire syringe-full of water when giving pills, even if my kitty has already swallowed the pill down after the initial depression of the plunger.

It is far better to administer a little more water than necessary than not quite enough!

It's essential that you have enough water-filled syringes present in case you need extra!

Sometimes even the best of pill administrators flub up, so it's handy to be near a water bowl with which you can refill your syringes in case the first pill was expelled and a new pill needs to be given!

You can encourage your cat to swallow the pill by using your right hand to gently stroke your cat's throat - this stimulates the swallowing reflex.

Step V: After the Pilling Procedure has been Completed

After your cat has successfully swallowed the pill(s), give lots of praise, cuddles, and some of their favorite treats, so that they make a positive association with the event.

In time, it is possible that your cat may even come running on cue (or, at the very least, won't run away!) when they hear the medication cupboard being opened, or the pills rattling in the pill vial, because they know that there will be tasty treats coming their way post-medication!

Common Kitty Medicating Mistakes:

Pills

Do NOT mix your cat's medication into their food for several reasons:

Many medications taste unpleasant, and typically the flavor of the medication in your cat's food will simply turn them off of a food that they previously enjoyed.

Putting the pill in food or crushing it and mixing it into food is a very unreliable manner of medicating your cat, unless you are then immediately syringing it as a slurry into your cat's mouth.

If you have other pets in the house, they may end up ingesting the medication and it may not be safe for the other pets in your home.

Liquids

Do not EVER place your cat in dorsal recumbency in order to administer liquid medications - ie. do not cradle your cat like a baby in order to syringe liquid into their mouth! This position makes it difficult for cats to swallow properly, and makes it very easy for them to aspirate the administered liquid into their lungs, instead of swallowing it down their esophagus. I have seen cats suffer from aspiration pneumonia as a result of liquid medications being administered in this manner.

Administer liquid medications the same way you would administer the water post-pill placement. Push the plunger slowly and gently, allowing your cat ample time to swallow the liquid. Keep your left hand (or your right hand if you are left-handed) under their chin in order to keep it closed, and ensure that the jaw is parallel to the floor so that they do not spit or drool out the liquid.

To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Caring For Your Senior Cat

Aging in cats can be a very individual process, just as it is in humans, but generally speaking, most cats are considered to be entering the senior years at 8 years of age, and are categorized as being geriatric once they are 10 years old.

Many aspects of caring for your cat change once they enter their geriatric years, including the expense of their veterinary care: this is something to be aware of in advance so that you can be sure to be able to provide the necessary medical care that they may require. Just like in humans, diseases of all kinds become more prevalent with age. Dental disease is a particularly commonly seen issue in older cats, and maintaining your older cat's dental health is both essential, and rather costly.

To begin with, your veterinarian will likely start recommending that annual, or even semi-annual, health screening tests be performed at your cat's regular physical exam times. These diagnostic tests will include blood pressure measurement, blood tests, urine tests, and sometimes survey x-rays as well.

The purpose of these tests is to assess overall organ function and health, and check for many common problems that are seen as cats age. For example, these blood tests generally include thyroid hormone levels, electrolyte levels, a total blood protein value, blood sugar, kidney values, liver enzyme levels, red blood cell and white blood cell counts, platelet counts, hemoglobin levels, etc. The urinalysis is used to help interpret the kidney blood values, and also to detect bladder or kidney infections, liver dysfunction, and diabetes. Blood pressure measurement is very important in older cats, because elevated blood pressure is seen quite frequently with diseases that are commonly seen in aging cats, and like humans, high blood pressure is considered to be a 'silent killer' (despite the fact that it occurs in cats for different reasons than in humans).

Survey x-rays are also invaluable, particularly in obese cats; as cats get older and older, their physical exams become of greater and greater importance, particularly for the detection of masses and diseased organs. However, because obesity in cats greatly limits what can be detected on physical exam, survey x-rays can help provide a better overview of organ shape and size than can be obtained on physical exam.

If your geriatric cat becomes ill with kidney insufficiency, hyperthyroidism, or other diseases, your veterinarian will treat your cat accordingly, and will advise you on what treatments can be done both in the clinic and at home to manage your cat's disease. More frequent examinations and tests may be recommended if your cat has been diagnosed with a health problem.

Even if your elderly cat has received a clean bill of health from the veterinarian, there are still methods with which you can provide your geriatric cat with greater daily comfort and improved quality of life. Some important techniques you can implement at home are discussed below.

Diet

Your geriatric cat should be fed an appropriate diet, and your veterinarian can give you samples for your cat to try, or make recommendations about suitable commercial diets available

Mature cat diets generally have more restricted protein levels in comparison with adult cat diets, and you will want to be cautious not to over-restrict your cat's protein intake since some geriatric diets will do so

Many geriatric cat diets are restricted in phosphorus and sodium levels in case of the presence of kidney insufficiency, hypertension, and/or heart disease

Geriatric diets often have increased fiber levels to help with slowing intestinal motility and encourage healthy daily bowel movements

Geriatric cats should be fed highly palatable canned food to optimize hydration status, particularly because renal insufficiency, which can result in dehydration and constipation, is so common in cats as they age

Access to the essentials

Geriatric cats often become less easily mobile due to decreased muscle tone and the onset of arthritis

It is important that geriatric cats have easy access to food and water dishes, as well as to their litter boxes

Weight loss and dehydration are common in older cats, so having food and water dishes on all floors of the home is important to encourage optimal intake at all times

Having comfortable access to litter boxes is necessary, which also means having access on all floors - geriatric cats that are forced to contend with staircases and longer distances to reach their litter boxes, may or may not end up doing their business in their boxes

Arthritis

Many geriatric do gradually 'slow down' as the years go by, and frequently we are too fast to assume that this is a regular part of the aging process

Well, it is a 'normal' part of the aging process in the sense that older cats are quite prone to developing arthritis, similarly to humans

However, arthritis is an ailment that all too frequently goes untreated in our feline family members, and it is well worth inquiring about pain management and nutrient supplementation for your cat with your cat's veterinarian - while we are unfortunately rather limited in the types of medications available and safe for long term usage in cats, there are some options that may be tried, and it can be amazing the transformation that can take place in your older kitty once it experiences relief from the chronic pain that arthritis imposes on them

Providing your arthritic cat with steps or boxes with which they can more easily access the bed and the couch, rather than needing to struggle to jump up or down onto them, can greatly decrease daily stress levels and also help avoid self-injury from an unsuccessful jump

Litter boxes themselves not only need to be placed in easily accessible locations, but they also need to be amenable to easy entry and exit for the geriatric cat - jumping in and out of litter boxes becomes more challenging as age progresses, and having roomy litter boxes with shallow entrances becomes more and more important

Monitoring Behavior

While your veterinarian will review your cat's behavior with you at its geriatric wellness exam, it is important for you to monitor your cat at home for any behavioral changes and bring your cat in for an appointment if you note any changes

The reason that behavior in older cats is so important, is because it is very commonly associated with underlying medical problems, despite the fact that the changes may seem 'personality'-related

Changes to watch for include differences in activity levels, alterations in sleeping habits, increased or decreased vocalization, increased or decreased appetite, increased thirst, increased socialization with people within the household, or conversely, withdrawal from the people in the house, increased irritability, aggression, and decreases in grooming behavior

Dental Care

Dental disease can easily lead to kidney and heart disease, systemic infections, and significant pain for your geriatric cat, and maintaining your cat's oral health will be one of the most important aspects of prolonging your cat's quantity and quality of life

Older cats with dental disease will not stop eating, contrary to popular belief, because to stop eating means to starve to death

Many owners expect that their cats will let them know, or will show symptoms, if they have dental discomfort, but this is simply not the case - animal instinct dictates survival above all else, and so cats that experience even severe daily dental pain will continue to eat, because doing so means that they will continue to live

While dental care for your cat is quite expensive, as it is for humans as well, it is one of the most important aspects of taking good care of your older cat, and ensuring that it is not suffering - it is an expense to consider before ever adopting a cat, and one that is well worth the investment once you are caring for your elderly cat

While this summary provides some good pointers on caring for your elderly cat, it is not a comprehensive list of all aspects of geriatric health care, and should you have any questions or concerns about the health of your geriatric kitty, it is best to contact your veterinarian to inquire about your concerns.

To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko, please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. © 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.

A Dozen Key Points on How to Enrich Your Cat's Indoor Environment

How can you ensure that your cat lives a happy, enriched indoor life? By implementing the following steps! Physical health is not the only important aspect of taking good care of your cat; mental well-being is just as essential to providing your cat with a long, rich, fulfilling life. Indoor cats do not have the same opportunities as outdoor cats do to express their natural instinctive behaviors and experience the same sensory stimuli: hunting, lying hidden underneath the boughs of a tree, listening to the sounds of nature, scratching tree trunks, perching atop branches, marking and defending territory, mating, and so forth.

The main goal of environmental enrichment is to provide indoor cats with surrogate activities and situations that serve as enjoyable outlets for their natural behaviors. As cat owners we derive endless pleasure from the relationships we enjoy with out felines. In return it is our duty to ensure that our kitties also benefit from their domestic lifestyles, not just vice versa. And not just in regard to physical well-being (of which there are many benefits for cats). Despite the fact that their worlds are limited to single households, there are still a plethora of ways with which indoor cats may be kept active, engaged, and mentally stimulated.

Rotate Toys

Rotate the toys that are available to your cat every week, keeping most of them in an inaccessible cupboard.

Cats become quickly bored with toys once they are no longer novel, so by rotating toys so that they only see each individual toy once every four to five weeks, the toys become like new again and again!

Catnip Toys

Many cats love indulging in catnip toys. Many catnip toys lose their 'nip after a period of time, so the best ones are refillable catnip toys. You can also 'marinate' regular cat toys in jars or containers of catnip and then give them to your cat for his or her enjoyment! It is also possible to grow your own catnip plants, and it is not difficult to do. You simply harvest some of the catnip periodically, dry it out, crumble it, place it into a container, and stuff it into refillable catnip toys.

Grooming

Spend five to ten minutes gently grooming your cat every day. Cats often mutually groom one another, and it is an important bonding behavior.

Start by gently brushing under your cat's chin, then its cheeks, and then move to the rest of the body. This will be a relaxing experience for both you and your cat, and will also help decrease the amount of hair that will be shed around the home.

Place self groomers around the most feline frequented corners of your home - cats love these, and will rub up against them more times over the course of a day than you can count!

Training Your Cat

Cats can easily learn a variety of tricks such as 'sit,' 'shake paw,' 'come' and many others, and it provides them with excellent mental stimulation to learn these tricks.

Your cat will also benefit from the added social interaction time with you, along with the positive rewards and attention lavished on them for properly responding to commands.

Use only positive reinforcement to teach your cat the desired behaviors, never ever punish your cat with physical or verbal negative interactions.

Cat Trees

Have cat trees available in more than one room of your house. Cats enjoy having perches of varying height. Felines are naturally a semi-arboreal species, so providing 'cat trees' is truly providing them with what they would naturally enjoy doing outdoors. Cats revel in being able to sit and observe situations, and feel that they are at a safe height. Having multiple cat trees with high perches is particularly important in a multiple cat household - cats will get along much better with one another when they have the readily available option to withdraw from the company of their fellow housemates

Window Seats

Similar to how it is important to provide cats with observational perches within the home to observe household happenings, it is just as important to ensure that your cat is able to enjoy the outdoors from a safe place; in other words, cats should have easily accessible window ledges from which they can observe the outdoors on a daily basis.

If window ledges are too narrow for your cat to be able to comfortably sit on them, you can strategically place furniture (such as shelving) around your home so that they have a seat available to them.

You can also purchase cat window seats that you can easily install yourself - they are inexpensive and very effective!

Open your windows to provide your cat with fresh air and unimpeded sounds from the outdoors - just be certain that your window screens are secure and strong before doing so!

Even if you are not planning to enjoy downtime in a particular room, remember to raise the window shades anyhow, so that your kitty can enjoy the view.

Outdoor Enclosures & Walking Your Cat

Consider providing safe ways for your cat to enjoy the outdoors. There are many websites that allow you to build safe, esthetically pleasing outdoor cat enclosures, that work for both houses and apartments - the following links are just a few of many such sites:

Cat Fence: Purrfect Cat Enclosures and Cat Fences ( http://www.purrfectfence.com/ )

Habitat Haven, The Cat's Den, Outdoor Cat Enclosures ( http://www.habitathaven.com )

Harness and leash walking allows provides fresh air and exercise for the both of you

This is one of my personal favorites; it never fails to generate funny looks from people, and it never ceases to make me smile when my Freddy asks me for walks at the doorway ro when he comes running excitedly at the sound of his harness jingling!

Cats actually do quite well with leash walking when a body harness is used, rather than a collar and leash, particularly if harness and leash training is started in kittenhood

You can also purchase pet strollers that have a fine mesh and allow cats to be walked by you while enjoying the scenery and feeling safely enclosed in their stroller.

Playmates for Your Cat

Although it is easiest to ensure that cats will get along well together when they are raised together from an early age, it is still possible to introduce adult cats to one another, or to introduce a kitten to an adult cat.

Unfortunately, even when kittens are raised together, there is never any guarantee that they will sustain a good relationship throughout their lives - cat relationships are quite volatile and are subject to change from seemingly small events and influences.

That said, many cats do get along quite well together, and there are lots of ways you can help ensure a healthy relationship between housemates. Having a playmate helps provide social interaction and affection for your cats when you are at work or out of the home, is a constant play resource, and cats in multiple cat households often get more exercise as well.

Puzzle Feeders (facilitating food foraging and predatory behaviors)

Do NOT free feed your cat (have food constantly available in a bowl), because this makes food boring and facilitates obesity. Obesity will greatly decrease your cat's quality of life.

Leaving a small quantity of healthy treats (e.g. freeze-dried chicken) available in puzzle feeders while away from home during the day, and when in bed overnight - this allows for small feedings at your cat's leisure and will encourage natural foraging/hunting behaviors and exercise. Puzzle feeders are also mentally stimulating.

Another method of having your cat work for their food and which will simulate foraging, is to hide treats around the home that they can spend time searching out through the day.

Also, toss treats across a room or down a hallway so that it becomes a game and your cat can chase and pounce on them is another great way to simulate hunting behavior inside your home.

Scratching Posts

Have scratching posts available in the rooms most frequented by your cat.

Scratching is a normal cat behavior, and having scratching posts that your cat thoroughly enjoys greatly enhances the pleasure derived from his or her daily routine.

Incline: Some cats prefer a vertical scratching surface, others prefer horizontal, and yet others are partial to a gentle incline.

Substrate: Some cats prefer rope, others carpeting, and some prefer simple $10 cardboard cat scratchers (which, incidentally, are available as flat, horizontal surfaces, and also as ramps of varying inclines)!

Also,remember that not all carpets are made equal... soft, low quality carpet does not provide good durability, and most cats prefer tougher, higher quality carpeting that they can really dig their claws into.

Stability: A solid, wide base is paramount to having a sturdy cat scratching post.

Daily Routines and Predictability

Cats are very much creatures of habit, and having certain key routines in their lives helps to provide them with a sense of security.

Events that should have predictability to them include key feeding times, cleaning the litter box(es), grooming your cat, and playing time.

On the flip side of that, it is also important to provide small novelties in their routine as well, to prevent life from becoming boring - these can include a new type of treat, a new cardboard box in the living room to play with, a brand-new toy, or some unexpected cuddle time.

Avoid Disruptive Events (and sudden changes in your cat's environment)

Routinely creating small changes to their environment allows your cat to develop coping mechanisms to deal with change, so that when real change arrives they are not entirely without the skills to deal with it.

Make significant changes incrementally to avoid high levels of stress

For example, if you are moving to a new home, maintain all of your cat's routines as strictly as possible with regards to feeding times, grooming time, etc., and introduce your cat to its new environment slowly.

Start by allowing your cat to live in one room of the home, and provide lots of familiar items to help your cat acclimatize to this new territory. Next, expose your cat to an entire floor of the new home, and then eventually allow your cat to explore the entire house.

Summary

If you implement these methods of environmental enrichment for your cat, you should have a content, sociable feline that relishes every minute of every day (of which he or she is awake!).

For further reading on this topic, visit "The Indoor Cat Initiative" (now called The Indoor Pet Initiative since its expansion to include other species), a wonderful website created by the veterinary college of Ohio State University.

To read more articles written by Veterinarian Dr. Ko please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.

NEWSFLASH: Free Report Reveals the Benefits of Green Lipped Mussel Extract for Cats

There is no stopping the growing popularity of the green lipped mussel extract for cats. You read that right, green lipped mussels are not only for humans, but for beloved household pets like cats as well! It has been the topic of many scientific researches and studies, as well as blogs all over the world. All over the internet, you will find overwhelming number of reviews and recommendations from satisfied consumers and pet owners.

If you are unfamiliar with this health supplement, it is good to start knowing the origin of this potent extract - the New Zealand's green lipped mussel. Scientifically known as the Perna canaliculus, it is also sometimes referred to as the green lips, green shell mussels or green back. This particular species of mussel is only harvested in the clean coastal area of New Zealand. It is rich in different nutrients and properties that are essential in maintaining better general well-being.

This shellfish is rich in proteins, vitamins and minerals. It is also a good source of Omega-3 fatty acids, which is important in maintaining a healthy heart, reducing inflammation and improving circulation of the heart. Additionally, its high glucosamine and chondroitin content makes it beneficial for people suffering in joint pains, arthritis and osteoarthritis. Although use of the mussel is commonly promoted to help reduce aches and prevent arthritis, this shellfish also contains a good amount of mucopolysaccharide (MPS), a unique chain of carbohydrates that is considered as the "glue of life". MPS is important in maintaining good cellular health. It plays an important role in body metabolism and aging process. A regular supply of green lipped mussel will eventually help the general health, including better skin and increased resistance to infections and illnesses. These scientifically recognized healing properties make the mussel a "complete food" and sometimes called a wonder food.

What is great is that nowadays, not only do pet owners get all of these benefits of GLM, green lipped mussel extract for cats have also been proven beneficial. But then, people ask why should they let their cats take supplements if their cats can eat the real thing? As mentioned above, this species of mussel is only found in New Zealand. Even if you can ship the shellfish, freezing has a destructive effect on the important properties of the mussel. Likewise, cooking the shellfish also gives an adverse effect. Health benefits from the green lipped mussel can only be obtained when it is eaten raw. Although many people love the taste of mussels, most of them would find raw mussels unpalatable.

Knowing the negative effects of heating and freezing to the mussel, you need to be careful in choosing the right green lipped mussel extract for cats. Consumers of this product, while unintentionally, often go for products from companies that compete on packaging and cost. Unfortunately, this inevitably leads to a low quality green lipped mussel extract for cats and human. To help you make the right decision, when you do your research on different products, compare their processing techniques. Go for products that value the important properties of the mussel and undergo short manufacturing processes. Products that undergo short processing processes, avoid any kind of undesirable oxidation processes and expose the mussel to as little heat as possible produce a higher level of satisfaction for the consumer and his/her beloved feline companion.

When Cats Rule The Roost

Our 'Missy' has come into our lives in our 'twilight years' - as a mature 'neutered' survivor of a marital breakdown - separated but saved, nonetheless. A kitten was not a preferred option this time. Our need for a 'point of kill' feline was immediate...only a fully grown, experienced, silent, stealthy guerilla-type marauder would do.

Mice and rats threatened to eat us out of house and home, as we apparently generously (but actually unwillingly and, in fact, quite bitterly) fed them chook food and pasture seed and calf milk powder. Our dog, Muffin, tried valiantly to overpower the enemy, but it was beyond her capabilities to foil their frenzied attacks. She just could not do it alone...and so Missy joined the Fighting Forces...with great gusto and serious success.

We had side-stepped the 'cat' option for many years, due to our beloved feathered friends - who wake us with joyous song each morning. We couldn't handle the thought of a cat stalking our beautiful little Blue Wrens. Do you know them? Fat, round fluffy little bodies with extremely long tail feathers that twitch and turn most expressively - and the male is the most brilliant Blue...like a cloudless, shimmering Summer sky.

We couldn't handle the thought - UNTIL - those adorable 'aviators' decided to attack the mirrors of our highly-prized and loved 10 year old Mercedes Benz sedan...and not just attack, you understand...but actually fertilise the mirrors and doors, car roof and bonnet! Added to the increasing sparrow/chook food onslaught, it was ALL too much. Missy was a welcome wild-life warrior.

Today, the good news is that few birds have been lost - but many mice and rats are meeting their Maker as we speak (did He really create them?). And the even better news is that both Missy the cat and Muffin the dog, just kill them and don't eat them. No...they choose to leave them near our back door to prove they are earning their bed and board. (This 'proof' bit is somewhat questionable as far as 'best' table etiquette goes...but ah-h-h well...a dead mouse is the best mouse...to us!)

Missy cat does indeed 'rule the roost' in both the great outdoors...AND indoors, as well (more on that subject shortly!). She has all but decimated the 'Raiders of the Lost Roost', whilst fully understanding and respecting the sacrosanct rights of 'laying hens'. Chooks and cat alike, appear to have developed a fine 'translation' of their shared 'bok-boks' and myriad 'miaows'. They converse when she's not on the prowl, with much tone variation and innuendo. I can't vouch for the language of 'the eyes' - chooks have such beady eyes (fairly expressionless, I've found) - and cats' eyes can become quite fixed and tigerish when 'on the job'.

The chooks definitely 'get it' that they are not the focus of Missy's unblinking regard and barely definable belly-dragging stalking. And they also embrace playtime with the 'dead' fruits of her labours. I do believe they are as fond of her as chooks are capable of being.

And the 'great indoors'? What can I say? Missy's staff ARE after all, Seniors - in years; in 'pet' experience'; and in questionable wisdom in the kids and pets stakes. You would not think two 'mature movers and shakers/ would allow a cat to take over all of the best seats in the house (at the daily-dining table; on the Lounge; on and in the bed in the Master Bedroom; on the mat in the Bathroom, when the 'smallest room' is occupied!) You would seriously NOT believe this, unless of course, you are also a cat-owner/staff member.

The cat's viewpoint is that it is simply what is right and due to them! Haven't you noticed how you heave yourself up again, just when you had settled comfortably in your favourite chair...because the cat wants to go out...right now! - or in again...right now!

And how else do you react to these furry tyrants who dominate your life? You have a 'melt-down' when they purr passionately and volubly as you hold yourself in amazingly awkward positions in order to keep them comfortable - don't you? The medical explanation is that stroking a pet dramatically slows your heartbeat and blood pressure. The cat loving human's explanation is...'Just Because!'

However you choose to look at it, you must admit - Cats Rule the Roost (indoors and out).

 

© 2011 Christine Larsen All Rights Reserved Worldwide

How To Catch A Feral Cat

A few days after I had moved into my apartment, I had spotted a cute little gray kitten that was living in the woods behind our apartment building. She was all by herself and I knew I had to rescue her before winter came and find a home or a no kill shelter for her. One of my roommates and I had tried to just walk up and catch her because she looked friendly and wasn't hissing at us, but that did not work. The minute we took a step in her direction she would take off. That is when we started calling her Skit, because she was skittish. Everyday I would try to get her comfortable with me so she would trust me enough for me to catch her. I put food and water out on our back porch and I would sit outside and talk to her, our neighbors probably thought I was nuts. She eventually started getting closer and trusting me more. It was finally after a month of doing all of this that I was finally able to catch her. I sat outside while I was talking to her and tossing her food. She slowly started to get closer and sniffing me, but the second I would move she would start to run. I finally got sick of standing and sat down and started to play with her with a string and water bottle cap.

This went on for two hours until I had moved in the house. I left the back porch door open and she would come right up to the door then back off again. I started to roll the bottle cap across the carpet until she finally came in to get it. She would run right back outside though so I knew I had to roll it further. The next time I made sure to roll the cap far enough away that I could close the screen door before she was able to get out. It worked. I had finally caught her. I put her in our cat carrier and started to call the animal shelters. I did not know at the time that you have to call in advance to make sure the shelters have room and that most shelters do not take feral cats, wild cats. After calling 22 shelters in a 100 mile radius, I called my mom. She called TLC, Tender Loving Care, and they would take her if we paid them $75. So we agreed and I brought her home. I had to wait to bring her home until the school week was over so I had her for five days. When it had finally come time to take her to TLC, I had fallen in love with her and knew I would not be able to get rid of her. We aren't allowed to have pets at school, so my only option was to beg my mom to let us keep her. After getting Skit home, it took my mom one minute with her to know we couldn't get rid of her either. We kept her and named her Isis, which in Egyptian mythology means the goddess of the sky and nature. She has turned out to be the most loving cat we have ever had. She also gets along great with our other cats.

The first thing I would recommend doing is to call a no-kill animal shelter, you may have to call several animal shelters, and let them know that you have a cat, or kitten, you are trying to rescue that will need a home. I would do this because shelters are often full and put you on a waiting list before they will take anymore animals. I would also start to let your friends and other people know (via word-of-mouth, Facebook, Twitter, Poster's, etc.) that you are in the process of rescuing a cat that will need a good home. Or, you could always keep them. They will most likely bond with one or two people in your family and be a little timid, but they still make great pets and in my case are very affectionate. The second recommendation would be to put out food and water for them. I would only leave the food and water out during the day to avoid attracting unwanted night critters like possums and raccoons. This will make the cat want to hang around your house because it knows that it will always have food. The third thing I would start doing is talking to it. This will help them to familiarize themselves with you in a non threatening way. Go out on your back porch, or wherever, pull up a chair and just make conversation. The fourth recommendations would be to get a cat carrier or some type of cage for you to put it in once you have caught it. If the animal will let you pick him or her up, do it and put it in the cage. If it won't, try to lure it into the cage with food or toys. If you are still having problems, try to lure it into your house so that you can close the door behind it and coax it into the cage once it is in your house. The cat will be very frightened and upset so make sure you do not take it out or try to put your fingers in the cage to pet it. Just continue to talk to it and follow through with the plans you had made after you caught it.

Help! My Cat Is Destroying My Couch!

Relax and breath! Don't punish your cat for scratching your furniture; it's a very natural behavior for your cat to perform. Your cat is stretching, marking their territory, and grooming their claws; you simply need to provide an even more attractive scratching surface for their use when they're indulging in this pleasurable behavior. There is plenty of hope for the lifespan of your furniture yet, just follow these easy suggestions:

Repellants

Protect your furniture by adding cat repellents to the specific areas on your furniture that your cat has special affections for (eg. the left arm of your favorite recliner). Most repellants do not cause damage to fabrics, but test the spray on a small area of the couch that isn't visible prior to applying it on visible locations. Reapply the repellent daily for about one week so that your cat concludes that these areas are undesirable surfaces for scratching. Widely available and very effective products include:

Bitter apple sprays - non-toxic; safe to use on most fabrics and surfaces; unodoriferous to people, but tastes and smells unattractive to cats.

Double-sided sticky tape - available in pet stores as well as home & office supply stores.

Aluminum foil - cover the area with the foil.

Note: DO NOT punish your cat if they commit one or two repeat offenses and scratch your furniture during their training period. Scratching is a normal and important aspect of feline self care. Punishing your cat for expressing happy, healthy cat behavior is unwarranted and will only cause your cat anxiety which will put strain on you and your cat's relationship. The goal is not to stop your cat from scratching, but simply to redirect the behavior to a more appropriate surface: one that is compatible with your, as well as your cat's, needs.

Scratching Alternatives

Assess the scratching surfaces you have provided for your cat within the home. Most cats have strong preferences regarding their scratching substrates, and the good news is that there are many different scratching post options available, among which you can select a substitute for the couch that will suit your cat's exact wants and needs! A cat who has enjoyable designated scratching mediums will not destroy furniture in order to stretch their claws satisfactorily. So whichever way your cat likes to dig in their nails, you need to satisfy those personal requirements:

Incline: Some kitties prefer vertical scratching surfaces while others prefer horizontal ones, and still others are partial to gentle inclines.

Substrate: Some cats prefer sisal rope, others prefer carpeted posts, and some prefer simple $10 cardboard cat scratchers (which, incidentally, are available as horizontal scratchers and also as ramps of variable inclines!). Note: Keep in mind that not all carpeting is created equal... soft, low quality carpet does not provide good durability; most cats prefer tougher, higher quality carpeting that they can really dig their claws into.

Mobility: Cats prefer that their scratching surfaces be immobile when being used, so scratching posts that hang (eg. from door handles) are generally not a hit with most kitties. A solid, wide base is paramount to having a sturdy cat scratching post that your cat will enjoy using. And remember, when purchasing cat towers, you frequently pay for the quality you are buying, so cheaper but more elaborate constructs may look great, but are often not very stable. Note: If your cat's scratching post is wobbly and insecure, chances are that your kitty will return to using the nice steady couch arm instead of their designated scratch post!

Provide scratching posts in all of the right locations in your home. If your cat's scratching posts are sequestered to the basement but they spend most of their time with you in the living room and bedroom areas, then the scratching posts are not going to be very effective! Chances are that if your cat wants to wake up and have a good lazy stretch after a satisfactory cat nap, that they are not going to saunter down to the basement to attend to those needs when there is a perfectly good couch staring them right in the face, offering up some lovely upholstery on its arms...

That's right, you may need to have multiple cat scratching posts available if you have a multiple level home, and they should not be banished 'out of sight,' otherwise they will also be 'out of mind' (ie. your cat's mind!). One substantial scratching post on the main floor, close to one of the main furniture victims, will often suffice. Ideally, however, there should be several scratching post options on the main floor. Other ancillary scratching posts should be added to the additional floors near your cat's various hang-out spots. Cardboard scratcher-ramps are a great way to provide multiple scratch posts around the home on a modest budget. Cardboard scratchers are also small and mean that your cat's scratching posts won't necessarily take over your entire home!

Sprinkle cat nip on your cat's scratching posts. Nothing encourages a cat to get familiar with the new, more appropriate scratching medium than some fresh 'nip! You can also place a few of your cat's favorite treats around the base and on top of their scratching posts to draw them over to their new posts and encourage their use.

Give your cat a 'pet-icure'!

Believe it or not, trimming your cat's nails is easily accomplished. It helps minimize the damage to your furniture during the 'new scratching substrate training interim,' and also ensures that your cat won't get their claws accidentally stuck in carpeting, slits in radiators, and other such nooks and crannies around your home (which can result in a painful torn claw).

Note:Additionally, it's beneficial for your cat to be accustomed to receiving pedicures from a young age. As cats grow older the outer nail sheaths do not shed as easily as they do in younger cats; their claws become long and thick, and can quickly become ingrown, infected, and painful unless they are trimmed periodically.

Additional Note: If your cat goes outdoors, do not trim your cat's nails too short. Decrease furniture damage by just clipping the sharp, pointed nail tip to create a blunt end, but leave enough nail length for your cat to be able to defend themselves against outdoor predators (other cats, dogs, raccoons, coyotes, fisher cats), climb trees to escape, etc.

Watch my know-how video (on my site) for tips on how to trim your cat's nails.

Soft Paws

Soft Paws are a truly innovative creation for indoor cats, and when all else has failed, this is the best solution available. Soft Paws are cheap, easy to apply, and painless. Declawing is NOT a humane option, and, hopefully, will be banned in North America in the near future. Soft Paws are essentially fake nails that ensheath your kitty's claws - nice, soft, rubbery fake nails that come in an assortment of fun colors! Soft Paws ensure that your cat's next big scratching session will be transformed into nothing more than a rigorous massaging action.

Note: If your cat goes outdoors you should not use Soft Paws to protect your furniture; without functional claws your cat will be unable to protect themselves in dangerous outdoor situations.

To read more of Dr. Ko's articles, please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.